As soon as I woke up I suspected something. This could be the last “normal” stage. It is a feeling that is both liberating and disturbing at the same time. Should my adventure end today? I'm a bit at a loss, but an empty stomach after a night in a Siberian icebox is rarely a good guide and even more rarely a mood enhancer. The fact is, …
At eight, it feels like the middle of the night, I feel my way to the window to look outside. It takes a while until dusk turns the morning gray and I realize the true extent of the weather. It's raining heavily. There is a strange emptiness in my head. That's how it is now...
The journey is slowly coming to an end, the stages between Santa Marta and Puebla de Sanabria are getting bleaker every day. But the route still offers enough variety, be it with friends on the Camino or a gourmet restaurant or a missionary who turns out to be a conspiracy theorist. But then the hike becomes more and more strenuous in bad weather, made even more difficult by painful inflammation of the periosteum. It seems like a Plan B is needed.
At Ganja de Moreruela the path branches off: the Via de la Plata leads via Astorga to the Camino Frances, while the Camino Sanabres is the southern route to the west.
The path offers a change of scenery, shows the effects of the forest fires and leads to Santa Marta de Tera with its remarkable church and modern hostel.
At today's destination Granja de Moreruela the path splits. The historic Roman route continues north to Astorga, where the via then joins the Camino Frances. From now on the path to the west is called Camino de Sanabrés.
I leave Salamanca and continue to Valdunciel. I cross long, barren stretches of the Castilian plateau, past dry sunflower fields along the way. Although I am annoyed by the effects of industrial agriculture, I still find moments of happiness and reflection in the quiet expanse. El Cubo de la Tierra is a highlight in every respect, but then the stage takes another long walk to Zamora, the famous city of 22 Romanesque churches.
The article explores the magical allure of Salamanca - an exotic city rich in history and culture, with its red sandstone buildings, recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The author describes the city's sights, such as the Plaza Mayor, the cathedrals, but also the curious astronaut at the Catedral Nueva. Despite the enchanting beauty and overwhelming sights of the city, the author feels tired and looks forward to the peace and quiet of the hike ahead.
This article follows the hike from Fuenterroble to Salamanca and reflects on the landscapes, encounters and personal reflections along the way. From encounters with wind turbines to reflections on cultural references, the article captures the essence of the experiences. The hiker reaches the halfway point and expresses his anticipation of the challenges ahead.
The content describes the further stages on the Way of St. James and reflects on the surroundings, encounters and experiences. It describes the author's thoughts, observations and physical sensations during the trek, including interactions with other pilgrims and experiences with the accommodations. The journey presents both physical and emotional challenges, which are described with candor and humor.
A pilgrimage with a touch of drama: My journey from Canaveral to Gallisteo is marked by Achilles tendon pain, early morning resentment of eager pilgrims and the surprising ~discovery of a breakfast bar. The adventure continues to the Arco de Càparra, where the impressive Roman arches leave a humble impression. As the unrelenting heat burns from the sky, the traveler cannot help but reflect on the life that once flourished amidst the now crumbling ruins.
The writer experiences a festive Sunday in Cáceres, enjoying an Irish concert and philosophical reflections. An afternoon in the medieval city leads to an evening with friends. The next day he sets off on a demanding 35 km hike to Cañaveral, where he has to contend with heat and poor roads. The day ends with a reflection on the difficulties of the journey.
The post is a detailed report on the hike from Alcuéscar to Cáceres, which passes through Valdesalor. The trip includes beautiful descriptions of sunrise, encounters with wildlife, a visit to the village of Casas de Don Antonio, crossing ancient Roman bridges and the difficulty of finding accommodation in Cáceres. In Cáceres, the traveler enjoys the vibrant life of the city, its rich architecture and, as a highlight, an evening of Irish music.
The writer reflects on the uncertainty of revisiting places in life as they trek from Mérida to Aljucén. The jourmey includes visits to the Aqueduct of Los Milagros, an impressive example of Roman engineering, and the Embalse de Proserpina reservoir. The peaceful yet deserted El Carrascalejo precedes the arrival in Aljucén. The journey continues amid rain and storm towards Alcuescar, ending in a chilly accommodation.
Mérida, a city between Seville and Santiago, is a blend of modern Spanish lifestyle and Roman past. It houses the National Museum for Roman Art showcasing artifacts from the Roman era. Famously known for its well-preserved Roman heritage, Mérida has received UNESCO World Heritage recognition. Visitors are charmed by its historical sites like the amphitheater and Roman theater, vibrant culture, and rich gastronomy.
Fuente de Cantos - Zafra The weather forecast was not wrong for once - heavy thunderstorms and heavy rain are forecast for this morning. So not what you want on the wide plains between Fuente and Zafra without protection. It's amazing how quickly you deviate from fixed resolutions when the sky isn't blue and sunny...
My hotel is closed for Descanso, which probably means innkeeper's Sunday, so breakfast in a nearby bar, for the first (and definitely not the last) time with tostada with mantequilla (or rather inedible margarina) and mermelada and a gran café con leche. At least something sweet in your stomach, almost like being at home. The Spaniard is eating breakfast next to me...
From Seville to Guillena The city is still in early morning slumber when I say goodbye to Nuevo Suizo (without having found out what the name is about) and take the first steps on the Via de la Plata, which takes me into a should lead to Santiago de Compostela for a few weeks. The way …
So today is the last stage. The end of the trail. Expected, hoped for, feared. Can it really be that this adventure is over today? Well, we will be able to give that answer in a few hours. For now, we have to get up early for once, because the ship that is supposed to take us to the other bank is leaving at exactly the moment...
It slowly dawns on us that we have an extremely long piece of work ahead of us today, but as always we take it calmly (the advantage of age) and just start walking. Everything else will fall into place (to paraphrase Charlie in Two and a Half Man). Although the description of the two parts doesn't even sound like that...
Sometimes you want to get inside a stranger's brain to see what makes them tick and what drives them. I'm not talking about Putin's brain, his psychopathic darkness would probably be frightening, no, I'm referring to the planners of the Trans Swiss Trail. Why do they have by far the longest and...
Well, after yesterday's strenuous stage we can look forward to a long but at least flat route along the Ticino. And our little group has gained a temporary addition. Silvia, my ex-wife, wants to find out how her fitness is and accompanies us to Bellinzona. In Biasca, where the stage starts, the Blenio Valley from...
You are never more in control of your own time than when hiking. Nobody and nothing forces you to do anything (except perhaps the expected distance or the hotel room you have already booked). Is it possible that this is why you feel so liberated? That a kind of dependence on this condition arises? That you want to do something again and again? …
You sit together at a long table, chat with mother and daughter, who are also on the Strada, and enjoy the sumptuous breakfast that contains everything your heart desires. This is how a day of hiking must begin; anything else would be a sin on this magnificent day that is announced on the mountain peaks. The old house in…
Well, today is the first day with company. The path is long, but, if I remember correctly, extremely beautiful. Deep down in the valley, traffic roars on the motorway, while up on the Strada Alta there is peace. Magnificent view of the Leventina and Val Bedretto mountain ranges. In villages and meadows...
So this morning I'm sitting in the café having breakfast, looking out into the cool morning, somehow happy to be able to escape this strange place. There are a lot of people on the street, all on their way to somewhere, no idea where. They look as purposeful as they must today. The dogma of the time: one should...
For such a short stage, it seems appropriate to start with something witty. Well then, I found something by Caravaggio, my favorite painter (among many others): We are made of the stuff that dreams are made of. Life is just a shadow that walks, a fairy tale, full of sound and fury. Come with your dark bandage, night! A …
Awakening with David Bowie Reaching for the iPhone and the iTunes database is always the first move, even before the system is booted up. The random selection enables the surprise of the day every morning, today actually very welcome with David Bowie. However, this song, recorded shortly before his death in early 2016, is not exactly what one...
Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee! Anyone who remembers Muhammed Ali knows this saying. One of his many unforgettable quips that can be used to one's own advantage at any time and in the most impossible situations. I am eternally grateful to him, this loudmouth. He accompanied my youth, he annoyed me, inspired me,...
“Movement is an elementary form of thinking,” said the Geneva-based developmental psychologist Jean Piaget. I don't know whether this thesis is correct, but my thought processes tend to focus on the immediate things. Or is that exactly what is meant? The brain is an association machine, connects elements, stores them, recognizes patterns. This is a …
Sometimes I wonder what kind of people they are who undertake long, strenuous long-distance hikes. And still completely alone. I'm one of them, but I still don't actually know. All I can think of is the fact that I've never felt better, never been less stressed, never been better at facing...
The ancient Greeks had two words for time: Chronos for the exact, even sequence of units of equal length, while Kairos refers to the opportune moment, the opportune moment, the feeling of being in the right place at the right time, with the right people (Thank you Tagesanzeiger Magazine). In summary, Kairos measures the importance...
If you look more closely - you have a lot of time for philosophical reflections on the way - hiking is an extremely simple thing. There is nothing superfluous, nothing complicated. You put one foot in front of the other, always straight ahead or along curves and inclines until you reach your destination. And the next day it goes...
Sometimes you become aware of the forces nature can develop. Today is one of those days. It's not entirely surprising. But always a reminder of how quickly something harmless can develop into something threatening. But as always, everything starts as expected. The view out the window shows wet streets...
Ridge hike on the western flank of the Pfyffer. On the Wachthubel there is a breathtaking view of the foothills of the Alps, Schrattenflue and Hohgant. On the descent you come across black buffalo. They made Schangnau famous for its mozzarella. What the guide has to say sounds interesting. Let's see if I can see the famous buffalo. The last time it will be...
It's going to be a long day. Some event in Lützelflüh, perhaps a Gotthelf event, meant that all the inns were fully booked on Sunday. The friendly lady at the desired hotel refers me to another one, which is also full. Well then, this evening I end up in a tiny little town called Ranflüh, a few kilometers away...
There is a song by Stiller Has called Aare, quite well known and popular with the audience. He will accompany me along the Aare today (even though I'm not a particularly enthusiastic fan of Stiller Has). After all, there are almost ten kilometers that I will hike exclusively along this blue wonder. The hiking guide also sees it positively: Attractive…
You narrowly escaped a great hangover, your head is somewhat clear and ready for the next stage. I sneak through the corridors; it smells of ancient wood, of worn carpets, of dust. It feels like diving into the past. But I like these old walls, they certainly have a lot to tell. I would be …
It is well advised to plan for shorter stages when planning. The body needs intervals in which it doesn't have to push itself to the limit (which I don't do anyway), where it can recover and recharge the battery. Anyone who forgets this simple truth will regret it. Today is one of those stages. Ascent and descent are harmless, the…
You would think that a Chinese breakfast would consist of rice soup or noodle soup, maybe jiaozi stuffed with minced meat and Chinese cabbage. Or Baozi or Youtiao. I would have liked that. But nothing like that. They have adapted to local eating habits and serve bread with butter and jam and cheese and ham. The bread, however,…
As a hiker, you are per se someone who protects the environment, who protects the climate, who does not need parking spaces and is otherwise - my own contribution to this theory - a very useful member of human society. To my astonishment, the patron of the hotel thinks exactly the same thing and gives me a discount straight away...
Sometimes, fortunately not too often, there are days that are anything but a blessing. In other words, crappy days. The shitty day starts early, actually yesterday never really ends. Despite the pleasant surroundings and soft bed, it gives me an almost sleepless night, as always difficult to explain. Pizza too big? Too much …
Actually, my disappointed eye is on the measly breakfast, but I can't help but listen to the conversation at the next table. A couple is deep in discussion, but I take a short break to point out the deep blue sky (the weather is a popular and usually successful way to start a conversation). This results in …
A pale sun shines through the window, obscured by quickly passing clouds, but every few moments they undergo another transition from light to dark and back to light again. A very welcome morning greeting. About the horses I'm particularly looking forward to today, because the stage leads up to the Freiberge, ...
There's nothing more boring on a hike when it's raining out of all cylinders early in the morning, and there's nothing nicer than sitting at home in the warm room with the rain hitting the window panes. Well, this morning the former is true - it's pouring rain. The sky shows its unpleasant face, gray...
A long-distance hike of over 500 kilometers does not always start with the best conditions. The day started early, almost night when you get up, autumn is approaching. The journey via Basel to Pruntrut is quite relaxed, but at the same time tired and stressed. The view through the window doesn't show what you would like - blue sky, ...
According to my calculations, there are still almost 20 kilometers to go to the finish in Geneva. This would mean that the targeted 500 km would be reached (of course that is a completely stupid goal, in the end everything else counts). But let's see, I'm curious to see how emotionally you can feel the impending end. Now, early in the morning, while I...
It's not what you don't know that gets you into trouble. But what you think you know for sure, even though it's not true. (Mark Twain) On this long hike it has often occurred to me how little I actually know and how little of what I thought I knew was correct. This may have come with age...
The Hotel Chez Yann actually has a human element this morning in the form of a young lady who kindly serves me breakfast. With a little effort, I still put on my grimmest face. “C'etait pas tres drole here soir”. I can't help but grin too, because a grin is all I know as...
It's coming to an end. Sometimes I think I see Geneva in the distance, which of course can't be true. There are still four tough stages and many kilometers to cover, today to Etoy, a small village in the interior. But what the heck, today's tour also promises a lot: without the slightest incline and ...
I wouldn't be surprised if today's stage was the most beautiful of the entire hike. It's eight in the morning, the sky is as blue as it should be, the lake is rippling in the morning wind, what more could you ask for from an ordinary Saturday. The evening low disappeared after many hours of deep sleep. And …
Three in the morning at the hotel window. Pitch black night. The contours of the trees are absorbed by an impenetrable blackness. Not a sound, not a single one. No owl calls in the distance, no wind whistles through the leaves, no raindrops hit the roof, absolutely nothing. Somehow beautiful and irritating at the same time. This reminds me of one of the famous novels...
I know that sound - the slapping on the window, the pattering on the roofs, the drumming on the asphalt. It's just after midnight and it's raining. It has also become cold, a frosty breath comes through the open window, and for the first time in a long time I am grateful for a warm blanket. Wonderful prospects for…
Connoisseurs, culture lovers and nature lovers will get their money's worth on the stage from Jaun to Gruyères. On the section that leads first along the Jaunbach and then along the Saane, hikers can discover how the water has shaped the landscape. Churches, chapels and the unique heritage of La Gruyère characterize the route. Well, I'll have Gruyère tomorrow...
Everything repeats itself the older you get. Some clever soul put this wisdom into the world, understandable but also quite trivial. It's similar to Bette Davis' (or Mae West, as the case may be) famous saying: Growing old is not for cowards. Of course, one could now claim that hiking is also a repetition of the same thing over and over again. The …
It seems as if the weather gods have become artistic for once. Through the square window you think you are standing in a landscape painter's painting. Steam rises from the wet meadows and condenses just above the hills into a long arm of cloud that hangs like a fluffy blanket over the trees and meadows. So exactly the right ones…
As lords of the castle, we actually expect to be served in bed, of course by servants in shiny dark blue liveries and white stockings, as is appropriate for noble gentlemen. They would wish us a good day while pouring coffee and providing poached eggs with salmon. Of course we are disappointed, instead of the liveried servants creep in...
It's actually a miracle that no one shouts "wake up" at six and you have to stand in front of the bed after half a minute. But waking up in a room with four people, which is actually vaguely reminiscent of the military, is much more pleasant. Instead of the shouting sergeant, Fridli quietly murmurs “half past eight” and so the first day together begins. That yesterday...
Old hotels are like history books. Even more than those in the big cities, it is the small country inns in whose rooms you can smell the scent of bygone times. The wood breathes, the floor creaks when you stand on it, sometimes a groan comes through the walls as if little goblins were trapped inside. The rooms have a lot…
The hotel manager loses his overly friendly composure in a matter of seconds when I ask him about the lack of WiFi support in the hotel rooms during check-out. He stutters about technical problems, effort and costs. I point out possible repeaters to him, but he seems to have never heard of them. Once again an example of how stupid and...
Sometimes, more often lately, I wake up in the morning and for a moment I'm unsure where I am. This always happens when you find yourself in quickly changing overnight locations. This morning is one of them: but it only takes a moment before I recognize the roar of the tractors and trucks. Sure, Luthern, the...