The Khonepaheng Waterfall is today's destination.

It's been a long time since my last ride on a motorcycle. It must have been in the Eighties, on my Harley-Davidson. Indeed, on a Harley-Davidson, but just one with 125 cc. This particular edition of the famous American dream on two wheels was produced a mere year, but on the technical basis of an Italian model.

Therefore, one can hardly speak of a real Harley. Nevertheless, when a bunch of young men gathered around my Harley, the pride was just as great as when it were an Electra Glide in Blue.  Oh, the good old days ...

It is not a Harley-Davidson with which the young Laotian intends to take me to the famous waterfall Khonepapheng, it is not even a real motorcycle, at best a scooter.

But nevertheless, the ride is a pleasure, even if it takes just half an hour. The driver tries his best, drives slowly and carefully and drops me off safely at the waterfall.

 

Khonepapheng - Rolling Thunder

I can hear the sound of the enormous water masses from afar, and then I just stand there and marvel. Simply breathtaking, gigantic, terrifying. My guidebook explains how many millions of liters per second fall into the abyss, foaming wildly with a deafening roar, sweeping everything away with unearthly force.

In a future adventure, this experience is even topped - at the Iguacu Falls in South America.

 

Khonepapheng-. a roaring monster  Khonepapheng waterfall - just amazing

It looks like an acceleration from slow motion to fast motion. The water approaches the edge very calmly, without haste, it seems to hesitate for a moment and then, slightly astonished, falls into the abyss, picks up speed in seconds, dashes forward, squeezed by a narrow gorge, only to calm down again, quietly foaming, as if nothing had happened.

 

Khonepapheng Waterfall - here the French wanted to go up by boat  Khonepapheng - listen to the thunder

 

Fishing at dangerous places

It looks as if even the greatest dangers can't stop anyone from stepping into those very dangers. For example, fishing in the foaming water beneath the waterfall. When the boy reaches out far to pull in his nets, one's heart stops. All it takes is one second of carelessness, and he would disappear into the viciously hissing waves. Not a chance.

The reasons why parents expose their children to these risks are clear. We all know them.

I leave the boy with a bad feeling and wish him all the luck in the world. My driver is waiting for me, I sit on his scooter, the roar of the river fades away in the background...

 

Fishing at dangerous places  Fishing at Khonepapheng waterfalls - very dangerous

Very dangerous fishing

 

Last walk

A walk across the bridge to Don Det. The railroad tracks led above the bridge until the crazy experiment had to be cancelled.

 

Bridge over troubled water

It is quieter on the neighboring island than on Don Khon. A wonderful, slow, thoughtful stroll along the river, between guesthouses and the usual stilted dwellings of the locals.

And I meet, probably for the last time, the French/New Zealand couple. As always, the joy is mutual. It's kind of sad, as always, that you meet people who are likeable and have all the qualities of a possible friendship, and you know that you'll never see them again.

 

Last day

So now the last day. Tomorrow for the first time in a long time heading north, Champasakh and the Khmer ruins are waiting, everything else, the onward transport to Ubon and then Bangkok will take care of itself.

I will indeed say goodbye with a tearful eye, however, it might become boring and hot with time. Considering the temperatures, I sleep well, maybe because there is simply nothing to do at daytime. Except for the occasional walk around the island, it's just eating and drinking and reading. At least I have my Dickens, which has waited almost 40 years to finally be read.

So then the last evening. Don't cling, Buddha says, and he is right as always, but it will be difficult tomorrow morning to suppress the melancholy. But things move forward like everything else in life.

 

P.S. Matching Song:  Serge Gainsbourg - Harley Davidson

And here the journey continues ...

 

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