Burma does not just mean the temples of Bagan, the Golden Rock or Inle Lake.
It's the people who, in their kindness, radiate something that has long been lost to us. A kindness that does not expect anything in return, it is a cordiality that comes from within.
So this is the second trip across a country that took my heart by storm a few years ago. There are no concrete plans yet. Perhaps first to Hsipaw in the northeast, then later north along the Irrawaddy to Bhamo and finally via Kalaw to Inle Lake.
Let's see what's awaiting me.
A strange feeling
It is a strange feeling to travel through a country that until a few years ago was as closed as an oyster. Exactly 7 (!) days were granted a visa, 7 days to travel through a country almost twice the size of Germany.
Thus, one had to hurry to explore just a small part of the famous sightseeings of the country. And if the visa deadline was exceeded, the authorities knew no pardon.
Many things have changed since then. Perhaps not in all people's minds (especially not in the concrete brains of the Military, who, contrary to popular belief, still hold power), but it is visible in everyday observations.
In comparison to 2004, there is indeed a working Internet, mobile phones are commonplace, as is Wifi, which is more widespread than in our latitudes. On the streets you can find less and less the wonderful bicycle rickshaws where you sit with your back to the driver. Instead, there are now millions of motorcycles and scooters, which compete for space on the streets (see Mandalay, ).
Strange and fascinating
And yet the country remains as strange as it is fascinating. This becomes clear on arrival in Mandalay.
How do you recognize a Phantom Airport? If you have the impression of having landed nowhere? Oh yes. If the number of staff busily digging around far exceeds the number of passengers? Could be. When just one dog got lost on the approaching highway? Definitely.
Then you have reached Mandalay International, just 50 kilometers south of Mandalay, surrounded by swamps and jungle and nothing else.
And that's exactly the way it will be on the Myanmar journey. With a decrepit train from Mandalay north, then up the river on the Irrawaddy, on a scary night ride on a motorcycle, on foot through forests and hills ...
Friendly and peaceful
Myanmar's second visit is not just beguiling, it's just a revelation. The country offers everything the traveler and backpacker heart can enjoy.
Extremely friendly and peaceful people (even if it is hardly imaginable in view of the Rohingya drama, see next section).
A thousand pagodas, a thousand temples.
Puffs swaying so heavy that you get seasick.
Lousy streets, wonderful food …
But as mentioned above, the country is changing rapidly since the opening-up. The question is always the same: should the former (poor, backward, but friendly, cheap) world be preserved, or does development (with the hordes of tourists invading the country) really bring people and their country forward?
The answer varies according to one' s point of view.
Contradictory and aggressive
The relations between the various ethnic groups are complicated. And very dangerous. There are rebel groups in different parts of the country, especially in the northeast, demanding more autonomy and protection for their ethnic groups. Violence is also an instrument of resistance. It might well happen that in order to avoid encounters with the rebel groups in question, it is necessary to take long detours ( Back to Mandalay).
And not to forget – the crime against the Muslim Rohyngas, an actual genocide, a war of extermination, actively supported not only by the government and the military, but also by the so peaceful and pious Buddhists.
A shame that should be borne in mind before visiting this wonderful country.
A few tips on the Myanmar highlights
Visa. Limited to a maximum of 7 days just a few years ago, valid today for up to one month (and may be renewed for a fee).
Mandalay, . The city with the magical name, located in the middle of the country, is about to become a dynamic metropolis.
The peace and relaxation that prevailed until recently is over. Today the streets are full, the noise omnipresent. Nevertheless, the city has retained its charm, and the leisurely walk up to the hill with the wonderful temples is still a highlight.
In addition, Mandalay is the starting point to the nearby hotspots Mingun, Amarapura or Inwa. And not to forget - here the train starts to Bhamo or Myitkyina. Or northeast to Hsipaw or Lashio.
Hsipaw is on the way from Mandalay towards China. And there, the influence of the big and powerful neighbor is especially intense.
The town on the way to Lashio offers a lot, especially wonderful treks in the neighbouring hills. The train to Hsipaw is in itself an experience, highlight is the Gokteik viaduct.
Gokteik viaduct. It is the most famous railway bridge in Myanmar, built by American companies on behalf of the British. It is almost 1899 meters long and 800 meters high. It is only driven at walking pace, which gives the clicking and buzzing photo and video amateurs the opportunity to apply their skills.
And especially recommended
Bhamo The city, located in the northeast of the country, close to the rebel areas and therefore always to be taken with caution, can be reached by all means of transport. By boat on the Irrawaddy or on the road or by train to Katha and from there by boat. And of course by plane.
One should by no means renounce the Train ride from Mandalay to the north. If you want to have a really crazy experience, take the train to Naba and then the boat on the Irrawaddy from Katha to Bhamo.
BaganIs there anything else to say? Hardly. Except that you have to hurry to get a glimpse of the incomparable atmosphere of the thousand temples before the onslaught of mass tourism.
Also the river cruise on the Irrawaddy from Mandalay to Bagan is something special in every way. And not only when the ship's engine gives up and you find yourself stranded somewhere in no-man's-land (as in my first Burma voyage).
And here the journey begins ...