Trans Swiss Trail - The perfection of the day

You might think that a Chinese breakfast consists of rice soup or noodle soup, maybe Jiaozi stuffed with minced meat and Chinese cabbage. Or even Baozi or Youtiao. I might have liked that.

But nothing of the sort. The Chinese have adapted to local eating habits serving bread with butter and jam and cheese and ham. The bread, however, it needs to be stated, is the best I've eaten in months. And that in a Chinese hotel.

The ways of the Lord are truly inscrutable.

Anyway, the boat leaves at 9.50, I can take my time, I would love to discuss the latest rumors and news with the staff in Mandarin, but well, my Chinese is limited to thanks and nothing else. Pity.

The boat seems to be ready for departure, I get on, looking forward to the crossing, while my heart becomes a little heavy at the thought of saying goodbye to Neuchâtel, which I enjoyed so much.

But then we're off. The ship's horn blows and powerful diesel engines get the ship moving.

God knows I'm not a water enthusiast, but such crossings are a special pleasure. And there, a huge flock of birds, which I unfortunately can not assign to a particular species, moves as fast as an arrow just above the water towards the city. Are they migratory birds gathering here? No idea.

Between woods and water

Apparently a great stage is waiting for me again, according to my favorite author and hiker Patrick Leigh Fermor a path between forests and water.

The guide is also enthusiastic:

Lake Neuchâtel is crossed by boat. The imposing Mont Vully greets you from afar. The climb is steep but short. A great panoramic view awaits at the top. Through the magnificent riparian forest of Le Chablais, you reach the medieval town of Murten.

Length 19 km; rise | descent 360 m | 340m; Hiking time 4 hours

Neither guide nor Fermor have been wrong - as soon as you leave the boat in Cudrefin, you find yourself on a dreamlike path leading sometimes through dense forest, then again along the lake.

Once again it is essential to savor the moments, to go slowly, to give beauty its place and its time. Fernando Pessoa would refer to the radiant perfection of the day. I have to agree with him. Yep.

And so the trail moves on, ever onward, following the sun and the shadows, the perfection of the day.

Afterwards the nature reserve of the Grand Caricaie. The area is an important stopover for birds on their way from the northern steppes to the coasts of Europe and Africa. Nowhere in Switzerland there are more bird species than here.

And right there, in the middle of the woods, a special treat for woodpeckers. It must be like a kind of banquet for knights and princesses for them. I can hear in my mind the rhythmic tapping of the sharp beaks on the defenseless wood. TOK TOK TOK.

Tok tok tok….

Fortifications, boulders and lamb's lettuce

A little later the path leaves Lake Neuchâtel and branches off to the east, from now following the Broye Canal (Canal de la Broye). It connects Lake Murten with Lake Neuchâtel.

This last section between Lake Murten and Lake Neuchâtel is also called the Broye Canal (French: Canal de la Broye). A canal with a similar course was already used by the Romans, among other things for long-distance trade as well as for the procurement of materials for the construction of Aventicum (quarries in the Jura).

Every few minutes, the silence is interrupted by the roar of powerful outboard motors. You think you are somewhere at the Côte d'Azur, where millionaires and Russian oligarchs cavort. Here, however, there are probably only a few would-be millionaires; the boats are loud and fast, but small and insignificant. Everything is relative.

Still further along the canal, I suddenly find myself in front of an oversized outdoor shed where, on closer inspection, lamb's lettuce is being grown. One might think that half of Switzerland might be supplied with it.

But the path has more delicacies to offer.

For example, hidden behind bushes and trees, a huge Boulder, transported by the Rhone glacier from the Furka to this place. It's been a long journey for the old stone.

What do you suppose it could tell us? Since the last Ice Age a good 20'000 years ago, a lot of time has passed. In fact, everything important concerning the development of Homo Sapiens has happened in these years (a blink of an eye measured against the time since the Big Bang). What pompous people we are.

As mentioned before, everything is relative.

The Mont Vully

But then the ascent to Mont Vully begins.

After just under one and a half hours, you stand in front of Mont Vully and leave the nature reserve. The small hill impresses with its exceptionally beautiful location between the lakes of Neuchâtel, Biel and Murten. A short climb and you are already at the top of the huge farmland. In spring, the rape blossoms here in bright yellow. The descent is on the south side. Instead of rapeseed, the famous vineyards of Mont Vully stand here in rows and rows. Chasselas and Pinot Noir are the most important grape varieties of the area. But also Merlot, Chardonnay or Gamaret are vinified here. The panoramic view over the plain and the Alps in the background is unparalleled.

The path is sometimes steep and strenuous, then again easy and airy through shady forests. And the view of Lake Murten is fantastic.

Helvetic fortification ruins

But then, quite unexpectedly (the history of the Helvetii, nota bene our common ancestors, has long since faded from my memory), an ancient fortification of the Helvetii. Even after hundreds of years still well preserved and demonstrating what the builders of that time were capable of.

I quote from several articles:

In addition to the view and all kinds of art, there is also a Helvetic oppidum to discover. However, apart from a reconstructed defensive wall, nothing can be seen of the fortified city, which covered around 50 hectares in the last two pre-Christian centuries: The Helvetians had destroyed their city themselves in 58 B.C. before they marched under the aged leader Divico against Casar's legions and were defeated at Bibracte in Burgundy.

Mont Vully is home to a rich historical heritage. On its flat back probably existed until the emigration of the Celtic Helvetii around 58 BC an oppidum whose ramparts are still clearly visible today. However, after the return of the Helvetii, forced by Gaius Iulius Caesar, a new oppidum was built near Avenches (in the Bois de Châtel) in place of the oppidum on Mont Vully.

One stands somewhat awestruck in front of the ancient buildings trying to imagine what the world must have been like back then. A violent world (almost like today), a world where nothing was safe. Where everything was fragile, endangered, threatened. Where the enemy lurked around the next corner. In this case, old Julius Caesar and his Roman cohorts.

So long ago.

But on the other side of the hill, the present is waiting in the form of extensive vineyards.

The Vully vineyard covers a total area of 152 ha (102 ha in the canton of Friborg and 46 ha in the canton of Vaud). The main grape varieties of the Vully are Chasselas (with 60% of production) and Pinot Noir (25%). The main market for Vully wines is German-speaking Switzerland, with around 80% of consumption, the rest being sold mainly in the canton of Fribourg.

No idea if this year's drought period has done any harm. The grapes look good at first glance, but I'm no expert.

Memories of Expo 2002

After Sugier the path follows along the Murtensee. It's long, very long, but it always rewards you with fantastic views of the lake rippling in the wind. Then again the path hides in dense forest, sometimes not a soul can be seen, then again whole groups who are obviously interested in the rich bird life.

But I don't stop until a small building on the shore catches my eye.

It reminds me of the Expo 2002, the Swiss national exhibition that I still remember. In addition to all the wonderful exhibits in Biel and Neuchâtel, I especially remember the rusted monolith standing right in that spot out in the lake.

A sight for the gods.

Despite all efforts, no solution could be found to preserve the monolith in Lake Murten or at least to set it up in a different place.

A pity.

Finally Murten

Every child knows this saying:

Charles the Bold lost his estate at Grandson, his courage at Murten, and his blood at Nancy.

Whether the story happened exactly like that remains to be seen. But that the small town of Murten played a historic role is undisputed.

I am glad to have finally arrived at today's destination. I have been on the road again almost two hours longer than indicated in the guide. At least I still catch one or the other look at the old town with its rich history.