In contrast to previous experience, there are lots of buses from Sucre to Potosi even during the day.
So you can choose between a very decrepit or a slightly less decrepit bus. It doesn't matter, the trip takes just a few hours, but with considerable climbs. Potosi is located at exactly 4000 meters.
Then let's hope for good brakes.
An epileptic fit
Apparently, a fee has to be paid at the terminal for the use of the building (by the way, also for the use of the toilet, which is once again an experience of a special nature, over which I prefer - as so often before - to put the veil of oblivion).
The elderly man at the exit to the buses points out to me that I have to pay this obolus, ah I see, I say, turn around, then I hear a loud shriek behind me. The controller, just smiling a few seconds ago, is lying on the ground, his body twitching violently.
It's easy to recognize - an epileptic seizure. People run to him, we join forces to take care of him, but there seems to be no one far and wide capable of helping professionally. At least we can prevent the poor guy from swallowing his tongue. But it just takes a few minutes until the convulsive twitching stops, the man opens his eyes ...
We breathe a sigh of relief ...
Old sad stories
An elderly gentleman dressed trés distingué sits next to me in the bus, and I immediately get into conversation with him. He lives in Sucre, but originates from Potosi and now wants to visit his relatives there.
As the rain pours down outside the window and a green and gray and brown world scurries by, he talks about Potosi, the history of silver mining until the mines were exhausted and the once hyper-rich city suffered a bitter decline within a short time.
There is still mining for metals, the Mineros are still the poorest creatures in the world, and there are still many children working in the extremely dangerous mines. There are many fatal accidents, and life expectancy is at an alarmingly low level due to dust lung and similar diseases.
Concern tourism
The main attraction of the city, apart from the fact that over 4000'120 people live at an altitude of 000 meters, in an absolutely inhospitable environment, are the mine excursions.
The tourists are transported to the mines, guided into the caves with appropriate equipment (better than that of the workers), where you can then watch the miners at work. As a special, conscience-soothing component of the excursion, the tourists take gifts with them, which are then distributed to the workers.
The next day they turn to other attractions. Concern tourism in its purest form. I would be damned if I'm going to take part in it.
An ugly city
The first impression of Potosi is horrific to say the least. Ugly buildings line dirty, flooded streets.
But the bus terminal exceeds everything seen so far. A gigantic cupola building, which in its ugliness even stands out from its ugly surroundings, which in terms of size might have suited La Paz, but in no way a small town like Potosi at the ass of the world.
Not entirely surprisingly, it is quite empty. The South-American Handbook, consisting primarily of tips for hotels and restaurants and warnings of all kinds, strongly points out that the terminal, located on the outskirts of Potosi, is not served by buses or cabs after nine o'clock in the evening.
Reason: robberies. That's great. But the really bizarre thing is that there is a second terminal in the center of the city, where far more buses stop than in the new superstructure.
Hostel at 4000 meters above sea level
I share the cab back to town with a German from Leipzig who has come by the same bus.
Inspired by the previous good experiences with hostels, I have booked again one hoping to get a single room with bathroom. But this time I have bad luck and have to be content with a bunk in a windowless 6 bed room.
I know some people, including very close ones, who might get short of breath just thinking about it. But there are also many positive things to tell about the hostel.
It is a very creatively constructed and designed building with lots of stairs and an interior with sofas and a bar and loud music and, of course, lots of young people who curiously eye me as if I were the last specimen of a dying species. I can't blame them, I'm conservatively estimated to be at least twice the average age. But immediately many conversations arise, I am invited to a real Spanish tortilla. What more could I ask for ...
Not so ugly at all ...
A visit to the old town brings surprising things to light.
There is indeed an city center which is anything but ugly. Well-kept parks, whitewashed churches, a pedestrian zone where you can escape the inevitable micro-buses, numerous restaurants and bars, and even a movie theater showing the latest Hollywood flicks more than make up for the ugliness of the rest of the city.
Here you can still see the wealth that must have prevailed before everything went down the proverbial drain.
Sleep in a room without a window at 4000 meters above sea level
Spending the night in a room completely closed off from the outside world with 3 other tourists, trying desperately to forget the altitude of over 4000 meters above sea level and still occasionally gasping for air, is a borderline experience to say the least. The mind, however, decides decisively that it shall be a quiet night. And after all, this also works on stormy seas: the mind commands, the body obeys - no seasickness.
It works as expected: I sleep like a rock, I don't wake up even once and in the morning I feel truly rested and ready for more adventures that will take me to Uyuni.
Mileage: 3136
Matching Song: Florence + The Machine - No Light, No Light
And here the journey continues ... to Uyuni
