We finally break through the dense cloud cover, and for the first time, the sun flashes out. It stays that way until the Near East, where the clouds dissipate and open up a view to a barren desert with strange circular shadows. I can't explain what it is, but it looks beautiful.

The full moon promises good things. An omen for the next weeks, I hope. Then the sky becomes coloured, yellow, the sun disappears at the horizon and leaves a warm trace of light and colours, until they dissolve and darkness spreads.

full moon
Full moon

We are still hovering over the endless black ocean, but then the first lights appear on the horizon, become a glistening chain of lights dancing on the ocean, then we dive into the burning sky above Mumbai.

touch down

Everything proceeds as usual, quickly and efficiently, and after just a few minutes I stroll past the officials to the exit, where hundreds of boards and notes are held up in the air.

You need to walk down the queue slowly, because otherwise you might miss your own name, but there it is, Rodolf Landult, and a young smart Indian smiles at me, welcomes me to India and leads me to the exit, where he speaks briefly into his cell phone to summon a cab.

I breathe in the warm aromatic Indian air to the full and bathe in the incomparable thunderstorm of sounds and noises unfolding around me.

Overwhelmed

The view through the cab window is breathtaking. Millions of people everywhere, on the street, on the sidewalks, at the windows. An endless chaos, a frightening mess at first sight. I sit motionless in the cab, a visitor from another world, once again overwhelmed, happy.

And so I'm in Mumbai – back in the craziest city of a pretty crazy country.

Train in Mumbai

The cab takes me to a small hotel, located in a dirty side street, and for a moment I'm in doubt whether I've landed at the right place. But everything is correct, I reach for the first time for the purpose of a tip in the pocket, confuse some coins and get serene laughter. Then I'm in the room, the AC is roaring, the head is pounding, it's all as expected and yet different.

I have arrived.

Tender music in the air

In the morning I feel really well, for the first time in weeks, although sleep was short and restless in this weird little hotel near the airport.

Despite the infernal noise of the AirCon, the ringing of the iPhone reaches my obviously alert ear and wakes me from my sleep. Waking up feels like emerging from deep muddy water.

Street in Mumbai

A tender voice is floating in the air, an Indian song. Probably about love, abandonment, devotion, eternal vows. I am sitting at my breakfast. In front of me an empty coffee cup, a plate, a bottle of mineral water. Waiters glide through the room, quiet, gentle in their steps.

Elephanta

After breakfast I head out to the monster called Mumbai, hell for many, heaven for a few. I visit the Indian Gate, enjoy the first moments of intense warmth. This is the way I imagined it when India was still a distant dream. Like many other Dreams, which sometimes can be realized, sometimes not.

I let myself drift along, taking it slow, not rushing. Time is not a issue, the train leaves tonight at eleven. I decide to take the boat to Elephanta. A nice, quiet start. An hour's ride on a barge, past the city in the distance, which is always there, gliding by, with no end in sight.

Mumbai - lakes from the sea
Mumbai's colourful scenerie

After getting off on the island, I walk up to the famous caves. Tourists chug past me in a tiny toy train. Beautiful women with soft voices are sitting in front of bananas, tangerines, sweets. I buy nuts coated in some kind of nougat and slowly move through the increasingly dense crowds of people.

A little black dog

At some point I need to pay entrance fee, probably way too much, because I am assigned a guide, who immediately starts a tiring chatter. I am led through the caves, the gods and their strange destinies are explained to me, I get annoyed because of the violent Portuguese, who did a lot of damage centuries ago. Then I set off on my own and proceed along the tracks without the guide.

Entrance to the caves in Elephanta
Entrance to the caves of Elephanta
Black dog
A small dog accompanies me on the tour

A small black dog accompanies me for a while. He doesn't look as strong as he might have to be to survive, but his look shows that he is prepared for it.

Then the return to the city. Lonely but happy strolling along the streets. A drink and something to eat in one of the bars mentioned in the travel guide. The tiredness returns, but now it's a relaxed tiredness. It is getting dark, night falls on the city, but everything remains loud and hectic.

Around nine I get my luggage and be driven to the station. Long waiting in and outside the waiting room. Images of sleeping tired people stretched out lengthwise on the floor. They seem to have something trusting about them, perhaps because they have nothing to lose.

The train arrives on time. A nice compartment, soon occupied by a young Australian couple, Sam and Keila, and three young Austrians. We talk, discuss, laugh. Wonderful. I quickly fall asleep on the unusual berth. Outside, India races past, rattling and roaring ...

 

P.S. Matching Song: Led Zeppelin - Black Dog

Here to arrive in Goa ...

 

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