Now I have arrived at the first highlight between Seville and Santiago, an ancient highlight with a unique, grandiose atmosphere. Modern Spanish lifestyle and culture meet a Roman past of sublime beauty, or quite simply the very best that the Camino has to offer.
After breakfast in Frank and Zhilin's apartment (thanks for the invitation), I set off to get acquainted with this particular city. The walk from the hotel is short, the modern museum shows the way to the most important archaeological sites.
The National Museum of Roman Art , houses a collection of artifacts from the Roman era, including mosaics, sculptures, pottery, coins and jewelry. Built in a modern and elegant style, the museum was designed by the Spanish architect Rafael Moneo.
Now, as I've mentioned several times, I'm not a keen visitor to museums, and ancient walls and the like are usually anathema to me. I prefer the company of real people, they are in the here and now.
At this museum, however, my principles are overturned. Initially rather bored, I stroll through the cool, austere rooms and imagine the fate of the artifacts on display. Indeed, after a while, a sense of awe sets in, as if you can feel a breath of the past.
Modern Mérida
Mérida is not only a city of the past, but also a very lively place to visit. It has a pleasant climate, rich gastronomy and a friendly atmosphere. Various cultural events take place here throughout the year, such as the International Festival of Classical Theater.
There are cities like Seville where you simply let yourself drift. Where you can let eyes wander, enveloped by sun and heat. Merida is definitely one of them. Perhaps it is the lightness of being once again, floating through the alleyways.
Roman Mérida
Mérida was founded in 25 BC. Founded by Emperor Augustus as a colony for veterans of the Roman legions. The city was named Emerita Augusta and became the capital of the province of Lusitania. At the time of the Roman Empire, Mérida was one of the most important cities in the region, with a thriving economy and a lively military and cultural life. Many impressive structures were built, such as theaters, amphitheaters, temples, bridges and aqueducts. Some of these monuments still survive today and are among the city's main attractions.
It's not far to the archaeological sites. Countless restaurants and bars and stores are lining the way there, and then you get there, still in the distance, and yet you know that something extraordinary is waiting.
The Amphitheater
The Amphitheatre, which was built around the same time as the theater and holds 15.000 spectators, was the scene of gladiator fights and naval battles. It consists of a circular arena surrounded by rows of seats and arches.
At first glance, the amphitheater doesn't look much different to the one in Italica, just bigger and better preserved. But when you enter the interior, you feel as if you are in a different world.
On this hot day in Mérida, a dark blue speckled sky frames the ancient site, just like 2000 years ago, a worthy setting for the theater. In your mind you can hear the noise, the applause of up to 15000 spectators, the cheers, perhaps even the groans of the gladiators who fought and perhaps died here.
Only a few visitors are present, the real rush will be in the afternoon and evening, but those present are, like me, astonished, overwhelmed, full of admiration for the art of the Romans to construct legacies that seem to have been built for eternity.
You don't really do anything other than walk slowly through the complex in silence, occasionally pulling out your iPhone, because fast, rushed steps don't suit real admirers. On the other hand, there are more highlights, so you move on towards the next climax.
The Roman Theater
This monumental theater was built in the years 16 and 15 BC. The enormous structure has largely been preserved to this day. In its heyday it could accommodate up to 6.000 spectators. It has a remarkable stage structure and is still used for performances today.
However, it was not the favorite building of the inhabitants of Mérida, as the Romans were not keen theater fans. Nevertheless, it symbolized the greatness and strength of the empire and was above all an important place for political campaigns and propaganda.
After visiting the amphitheater, you hardly expect anything better or more impressive, and yet the Roman theater exceeds all expectations. You enter the interior and within seconds you feel like you are part of a monumental theatrical performance.
The necessary setting is still there. The stage façade, the Corinthian columns, the statues of the gods and emperors. And thus the theater is still used today for special performances. I could imagine that the classical theater festival, taking place between June and August, would be a special highlight. But the Camino is calling ...
The Circus Maximus
Like its namesake in Rome, the Circus Maximus in Mérida was used for chariot races and other spectacles. It has a rectangular floor plan and is divided into two areas by the so-called spina. The arena, where the races were held, the spectator area or grandstands and the starting boxes are still clearly visible. The circus had an area of over 30000 m2 and could accommodate over 30000 spectators in its heyday.
Well, there are somewhat fewer spectators on this day, because I am actually the only visitor. Which gives me the opportunity to turn to old dreams of Ben Hur and imagine the cheers as Ben Hur desperately fends off the vicious attacks of his arch-enemy Messala.
Even though the Circus Maximus is one of the best preserved in the Roman Empire, there is something sad in its lonely size. You want to fill the place with people, you want to smell the horses, hear the screams of the spectators and the clatter of hooves, but that's just it. It's just a reminder of glorious times, still there, but only for the cawing ravens doing their rounds in the sky and an occasional visitor from distant lands.
The heat and the beer
Basically, old ruins like the ones described above provide the revenue base for numerous establishments where beer and similar liquid rewards are served. I leave the Circus Maximus with maximum thirst and maximum weariness of any further memories of the good old Roman Empire.
The walk from the circus to the livelier parts of the city is long and hot, and I'm glad to sink down on a chair and breathe a sigh of relief, the cool mug of beer in front of me and the prospect of a cozy, absolutely sightseeing-free evening in the company of my friends.
Matching song: Armik – Lost in Paradise
And here the Camino continues… to Aljucén
