After just 12 hours of deep sleep, I am ready to face fate, meaning, that today I will fearlessly throw myself into the dense traffic of Mandalay by bike. Fearlessness is the order of the day. Cycling in Burma is dangerous. Very dangerous.
So I rent a women's bike with three gears, a blessing. The boy, responsible for his vehicles, looks at me with the greatest possible skepticism. Apparently, he does not trust my talent of driving. I am determined to prove the opposite.
Bicycling in Mandalay - Facing fate
There are numerous vehicles of all kinds moving in all directions, bumping into each other at intersections, but somehow managing to get past each other without any trouble (not exactly as bad as in Hanoi, but hinting in that direction).
And in the middle of everything I am on my ladies bike, of course much slower than the rest, so an obstacle per se. Surprisingly, it works well, even if I cause a medium traffic jam now and then, but I acknowledge it gracefully and with a somewhat simple-minded smile. Nobody is angry. That foreigners on ladies' bicycles are in most cases idiots has apparently got around.
As soon as approaching the temple district, the crowds are increasing. A happy atmosphere full of laughter and children's voices welcomes me.
The Mahamuna Temple
So now Mahamuna. Not the first visit, but still impressive. It is one of the largest Buddhist shrines in Burma, which means a lot in this deeply religious country. Even from afar, the turrets glitter, gold-covered roofs gleam, majestic entrance gates beckon.
Of course, you have to get rid of your shoes and enter a kind of carnival area. It is teeming with stores and stalls offering all kinds of religious and other stuff. There is a loud babble of voices that does not fit in at all with the sacred significance of the sanctuary. But this is not unusual in Asia. People are considerably less strict in this respect.
The gold plated fat Buddha
And in the heart of the temple the statue of Buddha, quite big, quite fat. In the meantime, it is so much covered with gold that the original contours are no longer discernible. The reason for this is that the worshippers put wafer-thin gold leaves on the Buddha, day after day, year after year, tens of thousands. It is estimated that the value of the gold amounts to millions.
In the meantime, about several hundred kilos of gold cover the poor guy. Considering the poverty of the country, this is a rather astonishing gesture of piety. Basically, however, it is nothing more than a kind of indulgence deal: you decorate the Buddha with gold and receive better karma in return, which is crucial for the next life.
However, the fact that only the men are entitled to do so is somewhat thought-provoking. I'll skip the chauvinistic comments that come to my mind on this subject ...
The Irrawaddy River
Towards evening I take a walk. And then I recognize already from afar the bright haze above the river. Apart from the Mekong this is my second favorite river - the Irrawaddy. I don't know where my love for rivers comes from, I'm not really a lover of water. It is simply their unbridled power, their force, which can turn into destructive rage in no time at all. But there is also something sweet, something maternally protective.
Maybe it's because I got to know and love the river on a long trip from Mandalay to Bagan. So many impressions, so many wonderful memories. Of deserted stretches of the shores looking as if no human being has ever set foot on them. Colorful, noisy people who unexpectedly step out of the jungle and want to join the ride. Water buffaloes wallowing in the dirt, unknown birds making a hell of a fuss.
And then of course as the highlight of the trip – the failure of the engines and our stranding on Robinson's shores. But that's another story …
The vegetable and fruit market
The wonderful market draws me in, where women offer fruits and vegetables in all colors and shapes. I remember the market in Luang Namtha. It is just as colorful and noisy here. Everything has been carefully and with great love arranged and exhibited. You almost don't dare to buy anything thus destroying the work of art.
P.S. Matching Song: Jimi Hendrix - All along the Watchtower (greatest Song Ever)
And here the journey continues ...
