The heat has noticeably increased. An inherent process seems to reduce mind and body to lowered performance levels until they go into a kind of sleep mode, so to speak. It''s not until cooler temperatures push the activation button again. I can feel the physiological effects early that morning.
On the other hand there is another strenuous tour on today's program.
180 tough Kilometers
Well, the actual distance to Vientiane is not that long, between 160 and 180 kilometres, depending on the chosen route. So, you might think that it takes just a little bit of effort to cover it in 3-4 hours. But the precarious road conditions might turn it into a torture. Or to a journey in deep sleep while traveling through stunning landscapes, whose charm I notice in just a few waking moments.
While the engine roars, the wheel bearings moan, the car body groans and the murmurs of the passengers slowly mute, I close my eyes and fall into a kind of paralysis, occasionally interrupted by the shaking of the car. Fermor might wrap himself in his military cloak and sleep under a tree (guarded by the moon).
Breakdown just before Vientiane
A violent bang right under my ass shatters my peaceful dreams in seconds. The car veers and stops at the side of the road. Where are we? The passengers look around helplessly, finally get out hesitantly. The noise sounded like a ruptured tire, and that's exactly what it is.
We've already reached the suburbs of Vientiane, so it's not far to our destination for the day.
Spare tire? none
Although this kind of breakdown is not uncommon in Laos, the embarrassment of the situation is obvious to the chauffeur. We would like to help, but a destroyed tire must be replaced by an intact one, it's as simple as that, but if it's just not available, all efforts are of no use.
While waiting more or less frustrated at the roadside, hope returns because, after long and noisy phone calls with someone (headquarters, colleague, garage?), rescue arrives. The spare tire does not exactly make a confidence-inspiring impression, but what the heck, it's only a few more kilometers to the center of town.
Vientiane
The square where we ultimately get unloaded might be anywhere. I walk along the streets, trying to find my hotel, until I eventually figure out where I am. The hotel is ok, I settle in and shortly afterwards I enjoy a wonderful sandwich, served to me by an exceptionally nice and pretty young lady.
Vientiane has been the capital of the Democratic People's Republic of Laos since 1975. It is the economic, political and cultural center of the country. Officially, the city has about 350.000 inhabitants, about 620.000 people live throughout the conurbation.
In a 2018 ranking of cities for their quality of life Vientiane took the 170th place under 231 examined cities worldwide.
That's a rather underwhelming result.
A bigger village?
Stepping out of the hotel into the hot morning, I have the strange sensation of having landed in a somewhat larger village. In any case, not in the largest city of the country, the capital of Laos. The streets make a strangely sleepy impression, far from the hustle and bustle of other Asian cities. Since my background experience so far is limited to a few streets and alleys, I am convinced to meet the real Vientiane at the next big intersection, millions of cars, people, bicycles, carts.
Nothing like that.
It remains quiet. Even the major roads can be crossed without danger, even when the light signals are big and red and say Stop! I noticed the strange silence last night, but I thought it was more of an early evening post-rush hour silence. But it seems as if this silence lasts the whole day. When I think of Bangkok oops ...
The Patuxai
This knowledge leads to a dumb decision. For once, I think, I might walk to the sanctuary in my flip-flops. What an idiot I am! Sometimes I wonder which synapses in my brain are not working properly to come up with such idiotic ideas.
But first things first. The sacred sanctuary is located at the other end of Vientiane. So it is a long way, leading me along the most heavily trafficked road, the Xang Avenue.
Although my feet are loudly (it seems to me) reporting their indignation after half an hour, it is too late to turn back. So I continue my way unperturbed, beneath flowering bushes and trees, the smell of the road, mainly diesel exhaust from old and badly maintained vehicles, in my nose and feel quite comfortable.
Monument for the Heroes of the Royal Army
The first landmark of the city, the Patuxai,appears far away. The 49 meter high monumental building is located at the end of the Xang boulevard, erected in the 1960s as a “memorial to the heroes of the royal army”.
The Patuxai, the Victory Gate
The monumental building remains unfinished to this day, although the Laotian government repeatedly authorized new funding. The cement, which the USA had actually intended to use for the construction of an airfield for the Vietnam War, has been used. In addition, building material has been sidetracked into other canals for use in villas and apartment buildings. At present, the construction is especially interesting for tourism. You can climb , for a fee to the upper platforms, which provide a panoramic view of the city. The inner floors house numerous tourist shops.
Of course, I climb up to the platform like any other tourist, talk to the nice ladies selling all kinds of stuff (from China?) to the numerous, mainly Laotian customers, and enjoy the view of the Xang, the outline of the shrine, which still seems very far away and brings my aching feet to a new level of protest.
The Sanctuary
After a few more kilometers, I finally reach the day's destination. The shrine is a disappointment to say the least. The comparison, say to Shwedagon in Myanmar, is unfair, so big the difference. The "gold" does not shine, appears dull and somehow dirty and cheap. The wall is infested with blackish mold, making it even worse.
Pha That Luang, big stupa or holy royal relic, , is a large 16th-century Buddhist stupa. According to legend, this was originally a Mon sanctuary. Other legends report that emissaries from King Ashoka arrived around 307 BC. brought a relic of the Buddha here. Yet another legend claims that two Nagas resided here.
The Buddha looks a bit worn out - procession around the stupa
After all, there are a lot of people with solemn faces walking around the shrine laying flowers and shiny gold things to the specially designated places to pay homage to the Buddha. That is the only really impressive thing.
Way back on sponsored motorcycle
Going back on foot, is out of the question, so I take a look around for a TukTuk, but then a motorcyclist approaches, we get into talk, and so he eventually drives me back to the city. He is Vietnamese in desperate search of a sponsor to contribute to his rather empty gas tank.
Well, what the heck, I've spent money on much stupider things than on this poor guy. In any case, I'll finally get to my motorcycle adventure. After all, he drives very decently with the necessary calm and composure, which I reward after the ten-minute ride princely. With tears of gratitude (what a good person I am) he quickly makes off and I am back in the city.
I quietly spend afternoon and evening with a visit to the museum to survive the coarsest noon heat.
Local Delicacies
In the evening, I find a road where most tourists come to eat. Restaurant after restaurant invites me to try the local delicacies. The Mekong is close, but no feast for the eyes here. It has largely lost its royal power (or so it seems to me); it's as if the long journey from the Himalayas to here has tamed it. I am a bit sad, but hope for a resurrection at the latest in the area of the thousand islands, my next destination in the south.
Time to move on.
P.S. Matching Song: Quintessence - Jesus, Buddha, Moses, Gauranga
And here the journey continues ...
