On the stage from Jaun to Gruyères, connoisseurs, culture and nature lovers get their money's worth. On the section that runs first along the Jaunbach and then the Saane, hikers can discover how the water has shaped the landscape. Churches, chapels and the unique heritage of La Gruyère characterize the route.
Well, Gruyère I will have to discover on my own tomorrow, but let's enjoy our last stage together up to Broc.
Length: 22 km, Ascent | Descent: 540 m | 800 m, Hiking time: 6 h 00 min
Once Upon a time …
... there was a group of old friends who decided in 1997 to go on a hiking tour and surround the Montblanc. Ten hard days, but also a journey full of wonderful landscapes and encounters. No wonder that in the aftermath there were thoughts of a sequel ...
And so this first trip developed into a tradition that is now almost a quarter of a century old and, despite the increasing age of the participants, it still has a fixed calender date every year.
Here is a summary of our hikes:
- 1997 Tour du Montblanc (Switzerland / France / Italy)
- 1998 Wales (UK)
- 1999 Mairatal (Italy)
- 2000 Valtellina (Italy / Switzerland)
- 2001 GTA Gran Traversata the Alpi (Italy)
- 2002 Corsica (France)
- 2003 Valais (Switzerland)
- 2004 Pyrenees (Spain)
- 2005 Dolomites (Austria / Italy)
- 2006 Lake District (UK)
- 2007 Valais (Switzerland)
- 2008 Piedmont - Nice (Italy / France)
- 2009 Bernina (Switzerland)
- 2010 South of France
- 2011 Gotthard-Ticino (Switzerland)
- 2012 Vorarlberg (Germany / Austria / Switzerland)
- 2013 Jura (Switzerland)
- 2014 Carinthia (Austria / Italy / Slovenia)
- 2015 South West Coast Trail (UK)
- 2016 Ladakh (India, alone)
- 2017 Appenzeller Kulturspur (Switzerland)
- 2018 Bernese Oberland (Switzerland)
- 2019 Engadina (Switzerland)
- 2020 Walserweg (Switzerland)
- 2021 Alpenpanoramaweg (Switzerland)
The strenuous hikes with thousands of meters of altitude have become less frequent in recent years. We have either shortened or at least simplified the tours, we avoid the high alpine passes and instead enjoy leisurely hiking days in Appenzell or in the Jura or in the Bernese Oberland.
The increasing age (of at least some of the participants) certainly plays a role. And not to forget - the difficult and exhausting stages on the Langtang Trek have shown very clearly where the limits are. It is not only a question of ability, but also a question of will.
After all, the motivation to push oneself continuously decreases. However, in this context the question arises as to what a 500 km long non-stop tour has to do with decreasing motivation to perform.
Well, humans, an eternal mystery ...
Back to the present
So then to the last part of our joint hike. From Jaun, the path leads on the left side of the valley to Im Fang, then on the right side of the Jaunbach to Charmey.
The most interesting detail of today's route - we will cross - more or less unnoticed - the language border at the valley below In Fang. From then on - nous parlerons français, mes amis! But we are not only leaving German-speaking Switzerland, no, we are also crossing the so-called Röstigraben, the cultural rift that separates French-speaking from German-speaking Switzerland.
Whether this fictitious rift actually (still) exists is an open question. Of course, the two cultures tick differently, be it politically or socially, but the similarities are probably much bigger than is generally assumed. Otherwise, we would hardly have endured it together for so long.
But first we say goodbye to Jaun, a small hidden village with great traditions.
La Cascade is left behind, we pass the old church, now used as a cantor (house of song). A strange fate that is not entirely clear to me. But we turn away and follow the river along a wondrous world in all shades of green.
It's an easy, short stage, actually rather a kind of run-out after the exhausting tours of the last days. Anyway, we take it easy, the result is reflected in countless photos and videos (although, as you actually know, you cannot look around at the same time and take pictures).
Today's stage is exactly what is now rather announced - pleasant to walk, a flat tour, along creeks, through shady forests and villages and past farms and small hamlets.
A village and a river and a lake
We are approaching, that much is certain, willy-nilly the final destination, even if we unconsciously slow down the pace, drag out the stage. But don't forget - unlike me, it's a matter of not missing the train home in Broc.
But first we arrive at the picturesque village of Charmey at the exit of the valley, overlooked by the high peaks of Hochmatt and Schopfenspitz. It was the most important production center for Gruyère cheese starting in the High Middle Ages. Formerly an agricultural village, it has become an important tourist hotspot. There is winter and summer tourism here, the former World Cup skier Jacques Lüthi apparently originated from here.
The story is always similar: an initially poor but picturesquely located village is discovered at some point, perhaps by hikers or other tourists, word gets around until someone discovers the potential, and oops, the poor village becomes a rich village. New residents move here, commuters or retirees, hotels open and restaurants, and people discover the demand for local handicrafts, if there is any.
After Charmey, the path crosses a surprisingly primeval forest. You think you are being sucked into a world of fairies and goblins, one last time it seems, and we let the magic take hold of us. Sometimes the path climbs steeply, withered and rotten leaves crackling under the footsteps, then again a rivulet splashes over the path, you want to stay and listen to the water.
However, the fact that the water also has an almost uncanny destructive power becomes apparent a little later. The path is smashed almost beyond recognition, fallen tree trunks, stones and debris and wood debris make crossing difficult. One does not want to imagine what it must have been like during the thunderstorm ...
The Jaunbach has turned into an ugly, dirty river here, nothing reminds us of the clear water along the Jauntal. A bridge leads across, but not just any bridge but a real suspension bridge. The swinging reminds of Nepal.
The most beautiful section is closed
Lac de Montsalvens, through which the Jaunbach flows, is a reservoir. After a section on the shore of Lac de Montsalvens, we reach the dam of the same name built in 1920, the first in Europe with a double arch dam.
Then the path would run through the wild Jaunbach Gorge, over wooden bridges and through galleries dug into the rock, in places past vertical rock faces and through unlit tunnels.
The subjunctive is unfortunately correct, because this section, which we were looking forward to, is closed. On the corresponding website it says:
The circular trail around Lac de Montsalvens is partially open. The section between the barrage and the village of les Taillisses in the direction of Motélon remains closed due to renovation work.
Renovation work - what a shit!
We have to be content with a quick look down into the Jaunbach Gorge. What a bloody shame!
Broc and chocolate and a farewell
Not only is the path through the gorge closed, but now you also have to take a big detour to get to Broc, today's destination. The buildings of the famous chocolate factory Cailler can be seen from afar, they show the way.
And then we are there, in the center of Broc, in the garden restaurant of my hotel, and enjoy the last beer together.
So then, so long, my brave friends. As always, it was great and entertaining and another chapter in our hiking history. Until next time!
Matching Song: Nelly Furtado - All good things (come to an end)
And here the trail continues, alone again ... to Les Paccots
