Kochi - Far from hate and intolerance

I didn't know the old one Cochin (now called Kochi) holds so many unexpected experiences and insights in store. And above all, I was completely unaware that this former trading town was a haven for Jews from all over the world. Almost 2000 of them settled in their historical center in the middle of the last century. Today there are only a few.

But apparently the state is Kerala largely free from religious hatred. Religious tolerance is still part of India's DNA today, precisely because it is predominantly Hindu, says journalist Rajan Haneef. Diversity is not a problem here, it is desirable. (Excerpt from a Post from Swiss Radio SRF)

It is clear that the Portuguese, Dutch and later the English occupying forces traded in spices in this city, situated on the so-called spice coast. But not only that. The city in southern Kerala is a historical place. Here the famous navigator Vasco da Gama is buried. He made it as far as the 2nd Viceroy of the former Portuguese India.

Diarrhea

On arrival in Kochi (formerly Cochin), more precisely Ernakulam, I feel better. But I've had a rather uncomfortable night. Not a quiet relieving sleep like from Bombay to Goa, more a fight with the hard surface, the blankets, the warmth, in between the cold from the AC.

And, of course, my diarrhea. There is – and there always will be - those moments when you feel pretty miserable. I'm sure that applied to last night, on this train toilet, on weak legs, with headaches, stomach and intestinal pain and an increasing nausea.

Ernakulam

I like the town at first sight. But it's hot, very hot. I take the ferry over to Fort Kochi, then a TukTuk to the wonderful Chimarel Residency. A family business, a nice room, a wonderful courtyard. Newspapers. TV in the living room.

I sleep for a few hours, swallow my diarrhea pills and wait for recovery. In between I have time to read a book again (which I rarely do, life is just too short for that), which made a special impression on me.

The Fortune-Teller told me ...

A fascinating insight into the spiritual world of Asia:

Warned by a Hong Kong fortune-teller not to risk flying for an entire year, Tiziano Terzani—a vastly experienced Asia correspondent—took what he called “the first step into an unknown world. . . . It turned out to be one of the most extraordinary years I have ever spent: I was marked for death, and instead I was reborn.”

Meets at the end of his journey Tiziano Terzani to another fortune teller who gave him a ten day Vipassana meditation suggests in the tradition of U Ba Khin. With due doubts and mistrust, he decides to follow the advice. What he then experienced impressed me.

TukTuk

In the afternoon, a TukTuk driver once again offers me a trip through town. OK why not. Because there are more discoveries to make.

It is a lucky strike. I am being led to places I did not know existed. Only the Chinese fishing nets are a well-known sight in Kochi.

The Chinese fishing nets

Quote from Wikipedia: At the northern tip of the Fort Kochi peninsula you'll find the famous Chinese fishing nets. Already in the 13th century, they were introduced by Chinese merchants from the court of Kublai Khan. The heavy wooden structures, where the nets hang, are mainly used in floods. At least four men are needed to handle them.

Chinese fishing nets - a method unknown to us — Chinese fishing nets - a method that is unknown to us

Fishermen in their hat — Apparently the fishermen live here

Washing and ironing

There are huge sheds, where people do the washing and ironing. Numerous women, including even some men, are washing the mountains of dirty laundry and then ironing with ancient irons.

There is a lot of dirty laundry to wash — There is work

Even men do the ironing — Men are also ironing

An expensive antiquity — At best, an expensive antique

Drying in the open air — At the end he laundry is dried outdoors

Ginger

There's a kind of factory where Ginger is dried in the air and then packaged. Let's not talk about working conditions.

But as always, you have to see the other side of the coin. Many women (and obviously also men) have a job, they earn money, even if probably only a little) and can thus contribute to the support of their family. Of course the impression can be deceiving, but I only see happy faces.

Many steps in the processing of ginger — Many steps in the processing of Ginger

Drying ginger — Many steps in the processing of Ginger

Everyday life in Kochi

It's a peaceful life. As if the presence of the sea, as well as the events of the past that can still be felt today, bring about a serenity of its own.