The "Yellow House" turns out to be a pleasant trouvaille, run by a German, Gabriela, living in Ecuador for years, who has helped the establishment to achieve some European standard.
However, even in Quito, located at almost 3000 meters, there are no heating systems, and so I crawled last night without much hope beneath the numerous blankets. It is impossible to estimate the temperature in the room, but my ice-cold feet claim that it must be quite a bit below zero.
It's not that bad, of course, but I'm already freezing like a wet dog in the rain (an additional warm blanket in the following night will significantly improve the problem).
Quito and its climate
Despite its location on the equator, the climate in Quito is due to the altitude quite moderate, which is why it is also known as "cold tropical".
It is also humid (oh yes). The average annual temperature is 13 °C, although temperatures vary considerably more within a day than within a year. Temperatures range from about 6-7 °C at night to up to 24-25 °C on warm days. Most of the time, daytime temperatures are between 18 and 21 °C, which is why Quito is also known as the "City of Eternal Spring".
Thinking of the cold hours at night, the term "eternal spring" strikes me as rather weird.
On the way to the huge city
Everything else is ok though, the breakfast in conversation with other travelers is entertaining and leads to new plans for the upcoming days.
But first of all, I need to explore the huge city. Because it is really huge, I have massively underestimated its size. With a map provided and outlined by Gabriela, I set off for the old town, where Unesco declared an entire old town a World Heritage Site for the first time many years ago.
The way there is long and somewhat arduous, and my bad left knee, possibly upset by the cold night, announces itself back. In a pharmacy (of which it also teems here) I look for a suitable cuff.
The young lady in the shop initially understands nothing at all, but finally she puts the perfect aid for my damaged knee on the counter. Amid the interested glances of a beggar, I pull up my trouser leg and place the cuff in its proper position. And it immediately feels much better, somehow more stable, and my kneecap, making a loud cracking sound with every movement, seems to be immobilized for the time being.
Quito and its volcanoes
So then some information about the city.
Quito (San Francisco de Quito) is the capital of Ecuador, located 20 kilometers south of the equator in a 2.850 m high basin of the Andes. It is the second largest city in the country after Guayaquil, with a population of about 2,2 million. It is situated directly at the foot of the inactive and non-glaciated volcano Rucu Pichincha (4.690 m), rising on the west side of Quito. The Guagua Pichincha volcano immediately behind it is slightly active and somewhat higher (4.794 m), but cannot be seen from Quito.
There is a spectacular view from Quito southeast to the volcano Cotopaxi (5.897 m), which I already put on the list of highlights not to be missed.
In the surrounding area there are also the active volcanoes Cayambe (5.790 m) and Antisana (5.753 m) and the extinct Illiniza (5.263 m) and numerous smaller ones. Almost all of Quito is on sandy soils of volcanic origin. Earthquakes and ashfalls have frequently affected Quito in the past and present.
Quito is surrounded by 14 volcanoes and thus destroyed buildings in the old town have been rebuilt at least four times after earthquakes.
The last major volcanic eruption occurred in September 2002. At that time, the volcano Reventador, located east of the Andes, which had been quiet for 20 years, erupted. A state of emergency had to be declared in Quito, as the entire city and the entire valley east of Quito were covered ankle-deep with fine ash.
The historical center
Today I am primarily interested in the famous old town. The volcanoes, especially the Cotopaxi, will move into the center of interest the day after tomorrow.
At first glance, the World Heritage Site does not seem particularly different from the many squares and cathedrals of the last six weeks. Only at second glance, it brings its unique beauty to shine.
The large square in the Centro Historico, the Independence Square, represents the starting point, so to speak. From here all the branches go to the different directions. It is surrounded by numerous historic buildings, including the Government Palace, the Episcopal Seat, the Cathedral as well as the City Hall.
The square is a happy hubbub of activity. Children are playing, mothers are exchanging the latest gossip while trying to keep their children in check.
A South American city without churches - impossible
Ecuador too is a deeply Catholic country. How could it be otherwise in a country that, like all others, was conquered by hardcore Iberian Catholics.
From today's perspective, one can hardly comprehend the conditions at that time. A few bloodthirsty mercenaries (reminding me of the Swiss counterpart of the so-called Reisläufer - just as dull, brutal, bloodthirsty, barbaric) from Spain or Portugal arrive and subjugate by their sheer brutality the advanced civilizations of that time, for the blessing of the people and their immortal souls, first baptized, then slain.
An unbelievable shame for European culture and society (one of many) even today.
A threatening monster is gathering in the sky
The sky has darkened in the last few minutes - how could it be otherwise - and what is brewing there looks like a lot of water. Anyway, after a plentiful lunch I make my way to the other big cathedral, located a bit above the Centro Historico, and indeed, as expected, it soon starts to pour.
But that doesn't scare me, after all, the umbrella, the paragua, has become an irreplaceable carry-along as soon as leaving the hotel.
The allegation that my umbrella has been in use more than my suncream is greatly exaggerated, but it might well be. Yes Lord, actually I wanted to spend my vacations in the South American summer instead of freezing my ass off at night and getting caught in one downpour after another during the day.
I make it to the entrance with difficulty, thank to the Paragua, but the young man at the entrance laughs when I ask him about climbing the church tower. "Hay mucha lluvia!"
I don't care. So I climb up a narrow shaft of stairs, finally reaching the top floor, where there are a few stores for tourists and a passage to the tower. I climb up an almost vertical ladder, where an impressive view of the whole city awaits me at the top.
That sounds nice, but despite the paragua, the rain hits me in the face, which makes taking photos a balancing act between holding the umbrella and taking pictures.
The way home - fight between me and a lot of water
On the way back to the hotel, the battle between me and the water continues. It fills my shoes, causes my soaking wet pants to wobble around my legs, and prompts me to make daredevil jumps over puddles and the flowing water. My suspicion that socks and pants can hardly dry in the damp and cold room is confirmed.
The socks are still damp even after three days ... Damn it!
Mileage: 6578
Matching Song: The Beatles - Rain
And here the trip continues ...
